NSS legal now

[AtomicWedgie]

Ok, Thanks you have been a hugh help. Don't think you are out of the woods yet. I will have a few thousand more questions before this is done.

[AtomicWedgie]

Well, I ended up clocking the gear 2 teeth to make it clear. I had to move the wires 2 spots also. It clears but haven't had a chance to start it up and set the timing. So we will see. If this doesn't work I may look into a MSD small cap distributor.

I also got my pressure relief valve mounted. I didn't have a small enough tap to thread the holes so I drilled the mounting plate holes to a 1/4 but then had to get a small headed bolt to clear a raised part of the plate. Had to make a trip to Lowes to find the right bolts,lucky for me I found some allen headed bolts that fit. While I was there I picked up a 1 1/8" hole saw. Got the holes mounted and the relief hole drilled. I was really worried that I was going to mess this up but when I got my plan all worked out it came out nice. THANK GOD!

I got my throttle cable worked out and I added a 2nd return spring to it. Now I need to add the fuel lines and then I can start the car to set the timing.

Almost there. Thanks guys for all the help

[Dave Schultz]

post photos

[AtomicWedgie]

Oh ya I forgot





My plug wires all had 90* boots on them but the #5 plug needed a straight boot to clear the header tube. I ordered a new set of straight boot wires but the longest ones were still to short. After I got the distributor clocked I noticed that it moved my #5 stud closer so now my plug wire fit so that was a plus. Slowly I have been replacing the factory under hood wires with new. I got my manual out to see what the stock color was. When I got the car in 99' I thought it would look cool if all the wires were blue(don't ask). I have found out that it was making it hard to track down where they went. How else do people learn if they don't make mistakes, oh well it is an easy fix.

[Dave Schultz]

Looks good -- now you need to hurry up and ship those carbs to Damon to have him race prep them.

[AtomicWedgie]

I know. I am taking the car to the track on April 16th. I am hoping the car hits 10.5 if not then I will be giving him a call.

[fugly]

please put some flat washers under the bolts that hold the carbs on-

[AtomicWedgie]

Will do. I just tighten them down today and was thinking the same thing.

[texoutsider]

Double return springs needed on the carbs.

[Dave Schultz]

You're going to want to go with studs and nuts for the carbs.

[AtomicWedgie]

If I take them off and send them to Damon then I will go with the studs/washers. They are tightened down now. My car doesn't get the abuse your cars do. I only get to go to the track 5-6 times a year and I didn't over tighten them.

Thanks for the advice.

[Dave Schultz]

As often as carbs go on and off the car over a life time -- it is in the best interest of the intake's threads to have studs that stay in the intake.

Since aluminum is so soft and threads more fragile -- it is generally best to use studs and nuts in aluminum parts when possible. Headers, valve covers, ....

[chrysleriii]

Hi,
motor looks killer, what car do you have? so when we go to Cordova I can look you up and say Hi.
Russ

[AtomicWedgie]

Dave I didn't think of that. You have a valid point. I will get them changed over before I take it to the track in April. I may even add studs to the intake top. I am not impressed with bolts they supplied. You also mentioned something about 2 return springs. I have 2 springs; 1 for each carb. I tested them to see if each one would pull the carbs closed without the other one.

I am running a 65' Coronet


On April 16th I will most likely park in the middle row by the entry fee shack. Yellow Dually w/a big wind deflector on it. It is kind of hard to miss. I will be the one that is throwing stuff and cussing because the car isn't running right

What will you be driving?

[fastdiesel]

Lookin' good!