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Post by AtomicWedgie on Dec 23, 2010 8:22:50 GMT -5
I love the looks of the black stock steels on the back of a MOPAR. The only drawback is the rotating mass of that rim and since no one make a "steelie" aluminum rim clone I guess I am stuck.
I was thinking that if I took a set of alum weld wheels or whatever and had them powder coated black that at first glance they would have the steelie effect but be lite weight. Just don't know if that would look OK with Torq Thrust on the front.
Any thoughts/ideas. Man, I wish someone made a alum. clone rim!!!!
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Post by Dave Schultz on Dec 23, 2010 8:43:47 GMT -5
Wow -- I was thinking the same thing recently. I think it would look period correct enough at first glance and from the stands.
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Post by whompinwedge on Dec 23, 2010 17:15:48 GMT -5
I have actually seen this done before.
bogart used to have just a one piece spun aluminum wheel Tank Crosswhite had them on his stocker. also I have seen people use the centerline rims that look like super tricks.
Looks good
Casey
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Post by fastdiesel on Dec 26, 2010 18:39:50 GMT -5
I wanted to put a set of Crager S/S wheels on the Malibu. Talk about a cool, era-correct wheel...but the weight, ugh! They're also two piece, steel and alloy. Then there's the dreaded uni-lug. I wouldn't trust them at 125 MPH.
I don't think a 5/8" stud and nut would fit between the spokes, for the back.
I'll just have to continue using non-era-correct draglites. Light and CHEEP! I like CHEEP!
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Post by Dave Schultz on Dec 27, 2010 11:39:17 GMT -5
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Post by poppaj on Dec 27, 2010 18:53:42 GMT -5
I wanted to put a set of Crager S/S wheels on the Malibu. Talk about a cool, era-correct wheel...but the weight, ugh! They're also two piece, steel and alloy. Then there's the dreaded uni-lug. I wouldn't trust them at 125 MPH. I don't think a 5/8" stud and nut would fit between the spokes, for the back. I'll just have to continue using non-era-correct draglites. Light and CHEEP! I like CHEEP! Cragars used to be in many bolt patterns. not unilug, find a set of those and you will be in business. We ran them for years on our stock and super stock cars until super tricks came out. 1/2" studs are the biggest you can use though. poppaj |
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Post by fastdiesel on Dec 27, 2010 22:15:47 GMT -5
With the updated back end, I got 5/8" studs in the back, so Crager S/S's are out. AND they weigh just about twice what the draglites do!
Will just have to have a more modern look for the wheels....
I could shed a few more pounds of rotating weight with some of the ULTRA HIGH DOLLAR, race billets, but my budget can't stand that. They're more than 3-4 times what the draglites cost.
My skinnies up front were just fine, so I only had to spring for 2, 15x10's for the back. Sold the old 15x7's (and tires) to offset the cost. Fairly light and CHEEP. I like CHEEP!
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Post by AtomicWedgie on Jan 12, 2011 21:40:16 GMT -5
Is there any unusual prep for Alum rims to powder coat them besides cleaning them.
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Post by Dave Schultz on Jan 13, 2011 9:51:04 GMT -5
I wanted to put a set of Crager S/S wheels on the Malibu. Talk about a cool, era-correct wheel...but the weight, ugh! They're also two piece, steel and alloy. Then there's the dreaded uni-lug. I wouldn't trust them at 125 MPH. I don't think a 5/8" stud and nut would fit between the spokes, for the back. I'll just have to continue using non-era-correct draglites. Light and CHEEP! I like CHEEP! Cragars used to be in many bolt patterns. not unilug, find a set of those and you will be in business. We ran them for years on our stock and super stock cars until super tricks came out. 1/2" studs are the biggest you can use though. poppaj Good luck finding a set of 15"X8" with a 5 on 4.5" pattern. I spent a long time looking. Same with that size old school slotted aluminums |
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Post by Dave Schultz on Jan 13, 2011 9:53:29 GMT -5
Is there any unusual prep for Alum rims to powder coat them besides cleaning them. I don't imagine. I've have 50 sets of fabricated valve covers and carb valve bodies powder coated and they didn't require any different preparation than other metals. |
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